Bonsai tree Step Six: Aftercare
Once the transplanting is complete it is important to get the root mass wet as quickly as possible. This is most effectively done by filling a basin or tub with water and set- ting the tree in the tub up to its rim. Water will come up through the drainage holes and saturate the entire root mass. Allow the tree to sit in the tub for about 15 minutes and then remove it. You may add rooting stimulants, such as Vitamin B-1, Superthrive or Dy- nagro KLN, to the soak tub, if you wish. Such chemicals sometimes help the root system to overcome transplant shock and recover more quickly. The initial transplanting process is usually the only time it will be necessary to bottom soak the tree. Most of the time, bonsai are simply watered from the top with a hose or a watering can. Should the tree accidentally dry out you may bottom water again if you wish. It is an effec- tive way to insure that the total root mass is saturated. Remove the tree from the water and allow it to drain completely. Tipping one end of the container higher than the other will cause it to drain more quickly and completely. This is a good trick to remember because it can also be used on established bonsai to prevent excess moisture build up in a pot during times when seasonal rains are too heavy. Your bonsai is now... for all intents and purposes... finished. Bonsai are never really finished, but the basic styling structure is now in place and given time to grow, your bonsai will begin to mature and fill out. You may make minor styling adjustments to the tree at this time or you may choose to add a little moss or top dressing. Moss gives most bonsai a finished look and can be used to accentuate and define the surface roots. Be careful however, covering the surface of your pot with moss can prevent you from observing the moisture content of the soil. Also take care to allow nothing to grow in the pot which would develop a root system that competes with the tree’s roots. There is precious little growing space in a bonsai pot and your tree needs it all. 
The finished tree should be soaked in a tub of water for about 15 minutes. Root stimulants may be used to help the tree overcome transplant shock. After soaking, drain the tree on its edge to remove all excess water.
Now is the time for a little intensive care. For the next three weeks, this freshly transplanted juniper should be kept in the shade. Since a large portion of the root system has been cut away, it is necessary to allow the tree some recovery time so that it can begin to grow new replacement roots. The process of cutting a plants roots actually stimulates it to grow more roots... but this does not happen overnight. In the interim, mist the foliage as often as possible. A plant will absorb as much moisture through its leaves and bark as it will through its root system. Freshly pruned roots will be hard pressed to supply foliage with moisture. Misting the transplant and keeping it out of the drying sun and wind will help greatly. After about 3 weeks you may begin giving the juniper about half a day of sun and at the end of a month it should be moved into full sunshine. You may also now begin to feed the tree with a dilute fertilizer solution. For developing bonsai a fertilizer high is nitrogen is best. Remember the objective is to insure the soil mass stays pleasantly moist, but not constantly soggy. Also try to water in such a way that roots are not constantly jump- ing back and forth between dead dry and sopping wet. An even, moderately moist soil mass is your goal. How quickly your tree will dry out will depend upon the conditions in your back yard. Common sense is your best friend. Use the end of your finger. Dig down into the soil a little. If it feels dry... water. If it does not... then don’t water. There is no ancient oriental secrets concerning the watering procedures for a bonsai. Most people who kill their first tree do so with kindness. They are so worried the tree will dry out that they over water and drown the poor plant. Junipers actually prefer growing conditions slightly on the dry side. Remember... we said they were forgiving. That does not mean you can go away for a week and not worry about watering your bonsai. Place your bonsai on a regular feeding and watering schedule and pinch new growth to encourage develop- ment in the desired areas. Time is now the element which will benefit your bonsai the most. With its passage the tree will become more and more beautiful. Keep an eye on the wire and if it begins to cut into the bark, remove it immediately... even if the branch springs back to its original position. Generally, junipers will set their branches into the desired positions after about 3 or 4 months. The wire can then be removed. Other species of plants make take lon- ger to “harden off” requiring that the wire be left on longer. The juniper can be left in its container for about two years before it will fill the pot with roots and require a transplant. At that time, simply remove it from the container. Comb out the roots, remove about a third and repeat the trans- planting process as described above.
The great American bonsai master, John Naka, once noted that trees could talk and that the best thing he could do was learn to listen to what they had to say. This is good advice. Observe your trees. Learn from them and most of all... practice.... practice.... practice. The more you listen and the more you practice the better you will become.
The completed bonsai pictured above stands about 12 inches tall and was created in the informal upright style. All of the work was done in the space of one short afternoon. Certainly it would not qualify as a world class bonsai, but is, nevertheless, a pleasing addition to anyone’s garden. Such bonsai are typical of of the creations made by beginner bonsai enthusiasts. It demonstrates what can be accomplish on a first attempt. More importantly, what the beginner learns through the hands on styling and potting of this juniper will be vital in forming a solid foundation for the future.
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